Set on the southern slopes of the Cimini Mountains, just over 40 minutes by car from our hotel, Caprarola is striking for its elegance, its historical heritage and that authentic atmosphere typical of the small towns of Lazio. Visiting Caprarola means embarking on a journey into the heart of the Italian Renaissance, following the footsteps of the powerful Farnese family, who left an indelible mark on the town, making it one of the most significant examples of 16th-century town planning. Strolling through its streets, you’ll come across charming views, historic churches, ancient palaces and scenic viewpoints that invite you to slow down.
What is there to see in Caprarola? Here is an itinerary designed to help you discover the best of the town in a single day.
The day can only begin at Palazzo Farnese, the monument that symbolises Caprarola and one of the most important examples of Italian Renaissance architecture. It was built in the 16th century to a design by Jacopo Barozzi, known as Il Vignola, on the foundations of an earlier pentagonal fortress conceived by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger. Of the original project, Vignola kept the outer perimeter, transforming the military structure into an elegant Renaissance residence. Even from the outside, the palace impresses with its distinctive pentagonal shape and its dominant position over the town, while the interiors amaze with the richness of their decoration. During the visit you can admire frescoed halls, monumental rooms and splendid painted cycles that tell the story of the Farnese family’s prestige and the culture of the era.
Among the many painters who contributed to the decoration of the palace are the brothers Federico and Taddeo Zuccari, Jacopo Zanguidi (known as Il Bertoja), Raffaellino da Reggio and Giovanni De Vecchi. Among the most interesting features and rooms are: the Scala Regia, a superb work by Vignola frescoed by Antonio Tempesta; the Sala dei Fasti Farnesiani, decorated with frescoes summarising the life of the Farnese family; and the Sala del Mappamondo (“Room of the World Map”), named after the frescoes by Giovanni Antonio da Varese depicting the world as it was known at the time, based on travellers’ accounts. The visit then continues into the magnificent Italian gardens, designed by Vignola himself together with Giacomo del Duca and Girolamo Rainaldi. Statues, fountains and water features line the path, along with panoramic terraces and breathtaking views over the surrounding countryside.
After so much beauty, it’s the perfect time for a lunch break. Stop at one of the trattorias in the town to sample the culinary side of Caprarola too. Among the local specialities are acquacotta (a soup made with rustic bread and wild greens), fettuccine with wild boar ragù, and gnocchi col ferro (a uniquely shaped pasta, perfect for holding rich, hearty sauces).
After lunch, the itinerary continues with a walk along Via Dritta, now known as Via Filippo Nicolai, a masterpiece of 16th-century town planning. The street was designed by Vignola to create a scenic link between the town and Palazzo Farnese. An unhurried walk lets you soak up the authentic atmosphere of Caprarola, pausing to admire architectural details and small hidden corners that make every stretch of the route enjoyable.
Along the way stands the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, well worth a visit. It was built in the 14th century, though its current appearance is the result of 19th-century reconstruction designed by the architect Giuseppe Valadier, made necessary after a fierce fire had compromised the stability of its walls. Of the original building, only the bell tower in local stone remains, featuring mullioned windows and hanging arches. Inside, it houses important works from different periods and a fine organ.
The next stop is the Church of the Madonna della Consolazione, located in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Built in the 16th century at the behest of the Farnese family, it is a fine example of late Renaissance architecture with clear Baroque influences. The simple façade features a handsome peperino stone portal with a fully carved wooden door, while inside you can admire precious works of art, including the standout painting depicting Saint Francis in Prayer, attributed to Annibale Carracci.
A short walk from the Church of the Madonna della Consolazione, in Piazza Pietro Cuzzoli, stands the monumental Fontana delle Boccacce, probably designed by Vignola in the second half of the 16th century. Its name comes from the carved stone masks on the basin: distorted faces with wide-open mouths spouting water. Above the fountain is a small loggia decorated with three Farnese family coats of arms.
Finally, before leaving Caprarola, it’s worth visiting the Church of Santa Teresa, located just below the town. It was built between 1620 and 1623, although some work continued until 1628, to a design by the architect Girolamo Rainaldi. Its Baroque peperino stone façade leads into an interior rich with 17th-century works by artists of the calibre of Guido Reni, Giovanni Lanfranco and Alessandro Turchi (known as Il Veronese).
Caprarola is forty minutes from Bracciano. If you’re looking for a base to explore the Tuscia — Caprarola, Viterbo, Sutri, Cerveteri — the Albergo della Posta is in just the right spot. Right at the centre of it all, with nearby parking and the train station just 5 minutes away.
