Bracciano and Civitavecchia showcase two very different sides of the Lazio region. On one side lies the lakeside town, with its medieval old town and Orsini-Odescalchi Castle; on the other, a city overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, which has been closely linked to the sea and its important port for centuries. The two destinations are just over 40 kilometres apart, and it takes less than an hour by car to travel from the inland countryside to the coast.
For those staying in Bracciano and wondering what to see in Civitavecchia in one day, the best option is to set off in the morning and explore the city at a leisurely pace, focusing on the port, the historic centre and the main landmarks that bear witness to its past.
As soon as you arrive in the city, the sea draws you towards the monumental area of the historic port, the ancient heart and original core of Civitavecchia. Commissioned by Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd century AD, it long served as a hub for trade and contact between the peoples of the Mediterranean.
Walking along the quay, you will immediately come across the imposing Forte Michelangelo, which, besides being one of the city’s symbols, is one of the best-preserved Renaissance fortresses along the coast. Its name derives from the presumed involvement of the great master in the final stages of its construction. Commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508, the fortress was completed in 1537 during the papacy of Paul III.
Also within the port, in the central section of the massive wall separating it from the city, stands the magnificent Vanvitelli Fountain. Commissioned by Pope Benedict XIV, it was built in 1743 to a design by architect Luigi Vanvitelli. Made entirely of travertine, the fountain features the head of an old faun set within a niche topped by a curved pediment, with water flowing from its mouth.
Continuing towards the city centre, you will reach the National Archaeological Museum of Civitavecchia. Housed in an 18th-century building commissioned by Pope Clement XIII, it preserves artefacts from the surrounding area, including archaeological sites along the coast and nearby towns such as Santa Marinella, Allumiere and Tolfa. The museum’s most valuable exhibit is undoubtedly the Roman replica of Phidias’s Athena Parthenos, dating from the mid-2nd century AD. The statue’s head is on display at the Louvre in Paris.
By this point, it will probably be time to stop for lunch. Civitavecchia offers plenty of options in the town centre and near the port, with a food scene that, as you would expect in a seaside town, is deeply rooted in the daily catch. Dishes worth trying include seafood fettuccine, Civitavecchia-style fish soup, stuffed squid and polpetti affogati, a traditional local octopus dish cooked in a rich sauce. A break of an hour and a half or slightly longer will give you time to recharge without taking too much time away from the afternoon.
After lunch, you can continue with a stroll through the historic centre, exploring its characteristic narrow streets and historic squares, now serving as lively gathering places where the atmosphere becomes more intimate. Although many of the city’s monuments were rebuilt after the Second World War bombings, the area still offers unexpected views and charming corners. The historic centre extends from Piazza Leandra, overlooked by the small Church of Santa Maria della Stella. From here, passing through Porta dell’Archetto, you reach Piazza Aurelio Saffi, where the remains of the city’s ancient defensive walls are still visible. Closer to the historic port, meanwhile, lies the old Ghetto district.
Once your walk is over, head towards Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II to visit the Cathedral of San Francesco d’Assisi, Civitavecchia’s main religious building. Originally built in the 17th century and subsequently reconstructed several times, it features an elegant Baroque façade with two tiers of Ionic columns that dominates the surrounding square. Inside, the cathedral is adorned with valuable works of art, including a Nativity scene attributed to Domenico Zampieri, known as Domenichino.
Before setting off on the return journey to Bracciano, an essential way to round off your day in Civitavecchia is a walk along the Marina promenade. This is where locals enjoy gathering at sunset, when the sky takes on warm hues and the sun appears to sink into the sea.
Civitavecchia is approximately 50 minutes from our hotel. If you are looking for a base from which to explore the surrounding area, Albergo della Posta is located in the heart of Bracciano, with parking nearby and the train station just a few minutes away.
