The area around Lake Bracciano is home to a large community of farmers and cheesemakers, some of whom founded the Associazione Formaggi Storici della Campagna Romana with the aim of reviving cheeses that had long disappeared. Thanks to their efforts, Caciofiore di Columella (also known as Caciofiore of the Roman countryside) has been brought back to life—a small yet extraordinary dairy masterpiece. Considered the ancestor of Pecorino Romano, it is not just a cheese but a concentration of flavors that have stood the test of time.
A two-thousand-year-old cheese
The name directly recalls its historical origins. In 50 AD, the Latin writer Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella wrote in his treatise De Re Rustica: “It is best to curdle milk with lamb or kid rennet, although it can also be coagulated with wild thistle flowers, safflower seeds, or fig sap. In any case, the best cheese is that made with the least possible additives“. The use of wild thistle in cheesemaking was a widespread practice in Roman times.
After centuries of oblivion, in the early 2000s some dairies in the province of Rome revived this unique cheese by following Columella’s instructions. It is made from raw whole sheep’s milk and vegetable rennet obtained from artichoke flowers or wild thistle. In addition to being included in the official list of traditional Italian agri-food products (PAT) by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture, it is also a Slow Food Presidium.
How it is made
What makes this cheese unique is the use of vegetable rennet, derived from wild thistle (Cynara cardunculus) or artichoke flowers (Cynara scolymus), plants that grow abundantly in the Roman countryside thanks to its climate and volcanic soil. The milk used is exclusively raw and whole, without any pasteurization process, making it more delicate to handle but far richer in aroma.
The production of Caciofiore di Columella follows a sequence of ancient, precise, almost ritual gestures. It begins with the harvesting of the flowers during the summer, on sunny and dry days, when they are fully bloomed and deep purple in color. They are then left to dry upside down in a dark place for 15–20 days. Afterward, the stamens are carefully removed and vacuum-packed for storage.
To prepare the rennet, the dried stamens are soaked in water for 24 hours. The filtered extract is then added to the raw milk. Enzymes from the flower cause the milk to coagulate within 60–80 minutes. The curd is first cut into cubes of about 5 cm, left to rest for 15–20 minutes, and then cut again into irregular, coarse pieces roughly the size of a walnut.
The curd is then placed into square molds to allow the whey to drain. The following day, the cheeses are removed from the molds, dry-salted with sea salt, and left to age for 30 to 80 days. During this period, they are turned at least once a day to prevent excessive mold development on the surface.
Characteristics and tasting
Caciofiore di Columella appears as a small square cheese, about 10 cm per side, with a convex rind 4–5 cm high and weighing around 400 grams. Its wrinkled, yellowish rind encloses a soft, compact paste with a creamy core. On the nose, it offers a bold aroma with hints of artichoke and wild herbs, while on the palate it is intense, not overly salty, and slightly bitter.
The best way to appreciate its full sensory profile is to enjoy it on its own, preferably after letting it rest at room temperature for at least an hour. It also shines in traditional Roman countryside recipes, such as semolina gnocchi alla romana. It pairs perfectly with a dry Pecorino white wine, offering a long finish with citrus and fresh sage notes, or with a Cerveteri Rosso (a blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Cesanese, Canaiolo, and Carignano), characterized by its iodized and Mediterranean herbal aromas and its warm, smooth, balanced palate.
Where to find it
Currently, there are very few producers of Caciofiore di Columella. Among them is L’Isola del Formaggio in Bracciano, located a short distance from our hotel. The milk used comes exclusively from their own flocks, raised in a semi-wild system on the hills near Cerveteri and fed with natural forage. In addition to Caciofiore di Columella, the farm also produces other traditional local cheeses, crafted with the same artisanal care.
One more reason to visit Bracciano
If you want to experience the authentic flavors of the area firsthand, Albergo della Posta is the perfect starting point. We are located in the heart of Bracciano, just a short walk from the lake and all the local excellences that make this land unique.
Photo © Loquis
