Just about ten kilometers from our hotel lies a place where time seems to have stopped abruptly. Not by choice, but due to a cruel twist of fate that turned a once lively and historically rich village into silence, stone, and overgrown vegetation. Its name is Monterano, and if you haven’t visited yet, prepare for one of the most evocative experiences Lazio has to offer.
A bit of history
Perched on a tufa hill between the valleys of the Mignone and Bicione rivers, Monterano tells more than three thousand years of history in the area between Lake Bracciano and the Tolfa Mountains. Its origins date back to the Etruscan era, followed by Roman and later Lombard dominations.
During the Middle Ages, it experienced its peak, becoming one of the main centers of the Sabine area. Over the centuries, the fief passed through the hands of noble families including Anguillara, Colonna, Della Rovere, Cybo, Orsini, and finally Altieri. Thanks to this last family, the village achieved remarkable prestige. Pope Clement X, a member of the Altieri family, enriched it with numerous architectural works, some attributed to the genius of Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Monterano seemed destined for a bright future, but as often happens, prosperity was followed by decline. After the pope’s death, a slow and inglorious decay began. The village was progressively abandoned—first due to malaria, then difficult living conditions, and finally the devastation caused by Napoleonic troops. Residents moved to nearby towns, particularly to the adjacent site of Canale, leaving nature to reclaim the stones, slowly and inexorably.
What to see in Monterano
Today, Monterano presents itself as a fascinating set of ruins amidst lush vegetation, within the Monterano Regional Natural Reserve, established in 1988. The reserve spans just over 1,000 hectares, preserving a variety of habitats and remarkable biodiversity. Walking among the ruins is a silent journey through history, a total immersion in a suspended atmosphere.
As you ascend toward the village, the first sight is the ancient aqueduct with massive arches about 9 meters high, fascinating because the huge stones are fitted together without mortar. According to local legend, the aqueduct was built by the devil—a tale perfectly suited to the village’s eerie atmosphere.
Beyond the imposing arches of the aqueduct, the Baronial Palace of the Altieri family dominates the scene. Restored in the 17th century following Bernini’s design, it combined defensive and scenic elements. Despite abandonment and the passage of time, it still exudes intense charm. Nearby are the remains of the small Church of San Rocco, the bell tower of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, and a copy of the Lion Fountain, also a Bernini school work.
A few steps through the greenery lead to a large clearing where the dramatic Church of San Bonaventura stands. Designed by Bernini and completed by his pupil Mattia de’ Rossi, it symbolizes the village and testifies to its former importance. Although roofless, its façade and perimeter walls retain elegance. Next to the church are the remains of the Franciscan convent, and in the square stands an octagonal stone fountain, a copy of Bernini’s original design.
An open-air movie set
Monterano may seem familiar because you might have already seen it… in the movies. From the 1950s onward, dozens of films were shot here, finding in its ancient stones and wild vegetation the perfect set to evoke distant eras and suspended atmospheres. Notable films shot in Monterano include “Ben-Hur” (1959) by William Wyler, which won 11 Oscars; “The Gospel According to St. Matthew” (1964) by Pier Paolo Pasolini; “Antropophagus” (1980) by Joe D’Amato; “Il Marchese del Grillo” (1981) by Mario Monicelli, starring Alberto Sordi; and “Ladyhawke” (1985) by Richard Donner, with Michelle Pfeiffer and Matthew Broderick.
Just twenty minutes from Bracciano
Monterano is only about twenty minutes from Bracciano. If you’re planning a visit, you know where to start your journey: we are here, in the heart of Bracciano, ready to welcome you at Albergo della Posta.
